Runway Success Of Tartan

Fashion has long had an affection for tartan and 2011 is no exception With plaid taking centre stage on the catwalk.

This year one of fashions main players - Henry Holland - is yet again championing the plaid in his show. Holland received the 'Best Use of Tartan Prize at the Scottish Fashion Awards' a few months after his debut fashion show during London fashion week in 2008 when he was 27. He credits his use of tartan and love of fashion with the start of his commercial success. While Holland isn't Scottish - he hails from Ramsbottom in Lancashire - he is one of the many designers who have an affinity with Scotland "I don't have Scottish roots but I like the history and the culture behind the country's fabric industry" he said, adding "The 2008 collection was based on Scottish heritage fabrics, so to get a Scottish Fashion Award was really exciting."

The House of Holland label counts a host of celebrities among it's fans including Nicola Roberts, Agyness Deyn, Alexa Chung, Jamie Winstone, Pixie Geldof, Lindsay Lohan and Rihanna. There is also his high street range which is sold in Debenhams department store.

The 2011 range from the 'House of Holland' again highlights the exquisite fabrics that are produced in Scotland mixing them with high fashion, Holland highlights the unique Scottish feel of the collection "This season we've used authentic tweed, developing seven of our own with the factory in Harris". And the new items are gaining praise within the industry "I loved Henry's collection for autumn winter 2011. His style is edgy, young and inspirational. It's incredible to see so many high profile design houses like Henry Holland using our precious fabrics.' saidthe founder of the Scottish Fashion Awards.

In a more sombre mood, this month sees the opening of 'Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty' an exhibition in tribute to Alexander McQueen which takes place at the Costume institute. McQueen was fiercly proud of his Scottish heritage and was often seen in full highland attire on the runway. Even wearing full Highland regalia when he accepted his CBE in the Queen's 2003 birthday honours list.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York is hosting the retrospective on the man who was influential fashion designers of recent times. The tribute examines his earliest work, starting with his postgraduate collection, produced in 1992 - which was bought by the stylist Isabella Blow. Scotland and Scottishness was a major theme of the opening night with bagpipes playing as guest arrived and the hall decked out in heather.

A key figure in the New York fashion scene it is Scotland that he has the most affinity to. He took a fierce pride in his ancestry, and when he discovered his forebears were Jacobites, he claimed it was a McQueen who had rowed Bonnie Prince Charlie to safety on the Isle of Skye following his defeat at Culloden. key events in Scotland's history featured in his shows - including a representation of the 'culloden widows'.

"He used to come here with his family," recalls Isabella Macdonald, who runs Kinloch Lodge Hotel on the island, "so we grew quite close to them and vice versa.

Tartan featured heavily in his collections from the beginning, though his first ready-to-wear show in 1995, entitled Highland Rape, proved particularly provocative.

Featuring battered-looking models dressed in torn plaid, he said it had been inspired by the Highland Clearances.

In the course of his career, McQueen won numerous awards, including British Designer of the Year four times. High profile customers include Daphne Guinness, Lady Gaga and Kate Moss.

Alexander McQueen had spoken of his wish to be laid to rest near his Scottish ancestors. "He made it clear his wish was for his ashes to be scattered on Skye, where our family comes from originally, and we are going to honour that," said his brother Michael. "Alexander was back and forward all over the world, but he felt at home when he was in Scotland. He was so proud he could trace our family back to Skye and he wanted to return to the family home."

This autumn designers including Rag and Bone, Carven and Oscar de la Renta are including tartan in their new collections and continuing the plaid's fashion legacy.

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