Never Fly Fished In Rivers For Steelhead Or Chins? It's Easier Than You Think
You Don’t Need To Look Like Something Out Of Big “O’s” Catalogue.
The very first thing you need to do, besides buying a fly rod and reel, is forget everything you have ever read or saw on fly fishing. You want to catch fish, not look like something out of the big “O’s” catalogue. The fish aren’t going to hit because you look as though you just stepped out of a fashion magazine!
But first some basics. And this isn’t rocket science. Like spinning or casting rods and reels that come in a variety of actions (i.e. light, medium, heavy and “Oh my god!”), so do fly rods and reels. It’s based on a number system. The only thing to remember is that you match the fly line weight with the rod and reel weight. So here’s the weights and the size of fish that you would fish for with them: 4/5 weight rod/reel/line, small fish up to 2 to 3 pounds. 5/6 weight, small fish up to 3 to 7 pounds. 6/7 weight, fish up to 7 to 10 pounds. 7/8, 8/9 and 9/10 weights, now you can go for most fresh water fish and a some salt water fish. A graphite or fiberglass rod will do just fine.
Keep in mind that the above is only a basic guide. As an example, I fish rivers for steelhead and chins with both a 5/6 weight in a 7 foot rod and a 8/9 weight in a 9 foot rod and have used the 8/9 weight off of my boat. (See below). Both are fiberglass rods. (I also use, when needed, a 14 foot noodle rod). The 5/6 gets put aside in favor of the 8/9 when there are really big fish present and when there are a lot of people fishing. The heavier weight lets me land the fish more quickly so as not to upset other fishermen. The lighter weight takes more time and finesse to land larger fish, but is more challenging and fun. I also use the 5/6 weight in smaller streams and in lakes. (I have two different sized reels. One for river fishing which is bigger and holds more line than a standard 5/6 weight, but still load it with 5/6 weight line). Could you use the 8/9 for small fish? Sure, but it’s a little over kill and not as much fun.
The reel, as I stated above, you match the rod and reel. There are several types of reels you can use. One is an automatic. The advantage to an automatic is that it picks up the line quickly. But there are some disadvantages. One is that it’s a heaver reel which can be quite tiring. Also many do not hold enough line for fishing big fish without costing an arm and a leg. So that leaves several other types. One is a reel with a disk drag. Another with a spring drag, one with a clicker drag and one with a combination of two, either clicker/spring or disk/clicker. I use reels with a disk drag and the combination reel and find that they work quite well. I have also used reels with just a clicker drag. With this kind of reel you palm the exposed rim of the spool to create drag, allowing you to apply pressure as needed. Many just starting fly fishing opt for this reel. They are typically the least expensive of the reels.
As for the line, leader and backing, this to is not Einstein territory. Backing is used for nothing more than filling the fly fishing reel and to give you lots of line for when the fish runs. For fishing with a 4/5 to 6/7 weight you need 30 or slightly more yards of 10 pound backing. Any Dacron or nylon braided line will do, but do not use the super braids. Super braids don’t fill the reel up enough. (However if you are going to use the fly rods for trolling, then you could use a super braid so you get enough line on the reel. See my article “ Think Out Side The Box”.) I use tip-up line. For 8/9 and larger weights you need 75 yards or more of 15 to 20 pound test line. Two reasons: one, the reels are bigger and you need to fill them, and two, you’re fishing for bigger fish that can peal off quite a lot of line. I use 100 yards of 20 pound test braided ice fishing line. The brand doesn’t matter as long as it’s fairly good line. I like a bright line colors, lime green, bright yellow or orange. It is easier to see once you get into the backing fighting a fish.
In fly fishing you cast the line, not the fly. It’s the weight of the fly line that gets your bait out to where the fish are. An argument can be made for several types of line such as sinking, weight forward, floating and so on. But all you really need to get started is weight forward floating line. The reason is quite simple: you want to see the line on the water and it‘s easy to cast. Your line is the bobber/strike indicator, so to speak. To attach the backing to the line any strong knot that will pass through the fly rod’s eyes will do, although many fly fisherpersons use the Improved Surgeon Knot, a Blood Knot or a Blood Snell Knot. The Surgeon Knot and the Blood Snell Knot can be tied easily with the “Cinch Tie Knot Tyer,’ and the Blood Knot with the “Tru-Blood Knot Tyer.”
Leaders. If you want to get real fancy then get fly leader, which comes in a variety of length and sizes. You also have choices in tippet sizes which can be confusing. I use a good 10 to 20 pound fluorocarbon because I fish rivers a lot. And I’ll tell you it works just fine. If there are a lot of snags go with the heaver line. For pan fish and other small fish in lakes, 4 to 6 pound test would suffice. Attach the mono to the fly line using the same knots as above. The length of the leader can be any length you want, but 10 to 15 feet is fine.
The following lures, baits and flies, should get you started on river run steelhead which should be in the river now. Buy several of each as you will lose baits if you’re fishing rivers. Your flies should include salmon egg patterns in orange, lime green and white, egg sucking leaches, woolly buggers in several colors, an assortment of bright flies best tied on salmon hooks, and an assortment of drab colored flies again on salmon hooks. Use the big and the bright flies in stained water and the drab in clear. You can also get a assortment of different colored streamers. Tie them onto the leader with a Trilene knot or whatever knot you are used to using. To get the flies down to where the fish are, place a small split shot about 1 foot above the fly. Experiment till the fly just ticks the bottom. Hold your rod tip up high to get a more natural drift.
You don’t, in most instances, need to cast a long distance in most of the rivers flowing into the Great Lakes. My average cast is less than 20 feet when I’m wading in rivers. Let out about 10 to 15 feet of line into the current. Let the line straighten out and pull off another 5 to 10 feet of line. When straight, using your wrist more than your arm, flick the rod tip back to the 2:00 o’clock position, pause a split second or so then flick the rod tip to the 9:00 o’clock position and watch were the fly goes. Follow the drift with your rod tip watching for any indication of a strike. If the line stops or moves in a different direction set the hook. My suggestion is a couple of practice sessions in the back yard and you’ll be casting like a pro. Well almost.
I summary, this year I’m upgrading to Yad graphite fly rods and Pflueger reels with disk drags and clickers. My old fiberglass rods are getting just a bit more than beat up and my reels are well worn. But any of the rods and reels mentioned in this piece will do as will other brands as long as they meet the specs mentioned. So get the basic equipment and go to a river near you. Good fishing.
About the Author
George Hampel was a charter captain for a good number of years in Up-State New York and has fished all of his life. He currently writes articles for outdoor publications and gives seminars on all kinds of fishing. He also owns a web store at www.gobblywabblerdistributors.com that sells outdoor equipment for most every kind of outdoor activity and specializes in fishing. He currently fishes the Great Lakes, mostly Lake Michigan and inland waters in the Midwest.
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