Acid-staining concrete is rising in recognition.

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Acid-staining concrete is rising in recognition.

A lot of us are not “in-the-know” with the concrete acid stain method. Concrete acid staining is not a cover or coating agent; it is the method of coloring concrete by a chemical reaction.

What happens during a concrete acid stain is caused by combining water, acid, and inorganic salts. These three components merge with the minerals that are already there in the concrete, which makes the concrete change color. If accurately covered, concrete that has been acid stained will last a long time. A project can be done on either inside or outside walls. Acid stain can be painted to any concrete area that is in need of a modest fixing up.

An acid stain looks a bit like a spotted, marbled look. It generates stunning colors on any type of concrete. The end color is an earth tone brown, mixed with some reds and greens. A great advantage of a concrete acid stain is that you can also make your own color by mixing and matching available colors that can be bought at any hardware store. One thing that you should keep in mind that you can never expect an acid stain to stay uniform in color. One block of concrete will not look just like another. If you want a way to add color to your existing or new concrete surface look into acid staining. An acid stain can give your concrete surface a life of its own.

Unlike paint, it enters the exterior and a chemical reaction occurs to change the color. Therefore, the color usually won't chip or peel.

Here's a short summary of the steps that must be taken to acid-stain concrete:

#1 - Clean The Surface…

Before you begin, the concrete must be clean. Do not use acid wash during this phase. After the floor has been cleaned, it must be given plenty of time to dry.

#2 – Apply The Stain…

Be sure to wear protective items suggested by the manufacturer and follow the instructions to the “t”. Before applying the stain, be sure all walls, wood and metal are not exposed.

The easiest way to apply the stain is by spraying. An all-plastic insecticide sprayer works well. Shake the container well before using - be sure the lids are on tight - then begin spraying. Coat well, but do not lay it on very thick. (Dark rings can occur.) Let the floor dry completely and repeat the staining process. The color will deepen with the second coat. Acid-staining will not hide flaws in the floor. Do not touch or walk on the floor while it is wet.

#3 – Scrub Some More…

After the stain has had several hours to dry, scrub the residue using a medium stiff brush and a water-ammonia mixture (5 gallons water to 1 pint ammonia). Remove the water-ammonia blend, if possible with a wet vacuum...or use a squeegee or mop. Wash the area, but use water only. Repeat this step until all deposits are gone. Allow the floor to dry entirely.

#4 – Sealer Coverage…

There are several sealer options from which to choose. For exterior, consider a water-based or solvent-based acrylic. (Keep in mind, the solvent will darken the color.) For interior, a two-part epoxy or urethane sealer is best. If you're concerned about slippery surfaces, an anti-slip additive can be added to the sealer. Sealers are best applied in two coats by using a roller and giving the floors at least 5 to 10 hours to dry amid coats.

#5 – Upkeep…

A preservation program is very important to keeping floors sealed and looking their finest. A vinegar-water cleaning solution works best for interior floor cleaning. You should do this every 2 years.

Copyright 2006 by Samick N. Jack, all rights reserved.

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About the author...

Small businessman Samick N. Jack is owner of http://concrete.findyourperfectbusiness.com , your concrete source for everything concrete-related.

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