10 Tips On Buying Fine Antique and Estate Jewelry
by Richard and Rebekah Wise
1.What makes a piece of jewelry antique? In a word—age. Most experts consider pieces to be antique if they are at least 100 years old. Estate jewelry refers to jewelry that has been previously owned, falling into two main categories: secondhand (recently made jewelry) and period jewelry (jewelry from the distant past, for example: Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro). Second-hand jewelry will be priced differently from period jewelry.
2.From the point of view of price, there is really no such thing as a second- hand gemstone. Diamond, rubies, sapphires and other gems do not depreciate with time. Older cuts were once discounted; today, however, stones cut in older cutting styles are considered very desirable.
3.Auctions can be an excellent place to buy antique jewelry. If you are thinking of buying at auction, read the catalogue carefully. If the description doesn’t say antique, it probably isn’t. Go to the preview, ask questions. Most jewelry sold at auction is either period, vintage or new jewelry consigned by wholesalers. Catalogues typically contain disclaimers and are not responsible for estimated weights or treatments that may have been done to gemstones. Be sure to read the fine print, and make sure you know what % the buyer’s premium is.
4.A fine antique is like an elderly relative; it will last a long time if it is well taken care of. Many antique pieces were made for upper class women of a gentler age who did little tough physical work. That delicate lacy ring you fell in love with may not be the best choice if you plan to wear it while you are running a chain saw.
5.Don’t assume because it’s antique that it is handmade. Jewelry made through the Georgian Period (1715-1820) was usually handmade. The Victorians were in love with the machine. All except the very finest jewelry was mass manufactured from Queen Victoria’s time onward. True handmade pieces are the crème de la crème of antique jewels.
6.The popularity of antique jewelry, particularly Art Deco period pieces, has spawned an entire industry dedicated to reproducing this jewelry. Beware--unless you are an expert--be sure to deal with one. If the dealer tells you the piece is genuine he should be willing to put it in writing. When in doubt, remember the old adage--if it seems like too good a deal, it probably is.
7.Antique jewelry is a good investment if you buy carefully. Investment is not for the casual buyer.
8.Antique jewelry tends to hold a greater percentage of its value than contemporary pieces of jewelry.
9.Antique pieces should be approached with an eye to the quality of the gemstones (look for the finest you can afford), the workmanship of the piece, (the back should look as good as the front) and overall design (should be balanced and harmonious).
10.Buy estate jewelry because you love the designs from a certain period, because of its rarity, uniqueness, or provenance, or simply because estate jewelry is good value for the money. Whatever the reason, the mystique of owning a piece from the past is part of what makes it so desirable and appealing.
This article may be used without prior permission provided that the author and the name of the book is included. If posted on a website a hotlink to the book website is a prerequisite for free use of this copywrited material. For additional information contact the author: Richard@rwwise.com
About the Author
Richard W. Wise is the author of Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseurs Guide To Precious Gemstones. To learn more, visit http://www.secretsofthegemtrade.com Rebekah is the Antique Specialist at R. W. Wise, Goldsmiths, Lenox, Ma.
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