A Wine Lover's Near Weekly Review Of $15 Wines - A Swiss Chasselas
Almost all the wines that we have reviewed have come from commercial wineries. Today's wine is produced by a Swiss cooperative, Cave de la Côte-Uvavins, that was founded in 1929. It now represents more than 400 producers with 1800 plots. They produce some sixty wines with an annual volume of almost 900 thousands gallons (4 million liters). Chasselas is Switzerland's signature (white) grape. It is also found in France where it is usually considered a table grape. Swiss wines tend to be somewhat expensive.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Dubaril Chasselas Romand 2008 12.4% alcohol about $15
Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. The Chasselas grape's history is shrouded in mystery. Some experts claim its origins trace back to Egypt; others say it hails from the village of Chasselas in eastern France; while still others maintain it is native to Switzerland, where it is also known as Fendant. Whatever the case, today's Swiss examples set the benchmark for this intriguing varietal. And now for my review.
At the first sips this Chasselas had pleasant acidity but not much fruit. My first meal started with broccoli pancakes that included potatoes, onion, and oat bran. The wine's acidity picked up. It tasted of apples and was oily, a quality that I like. With a commercial chicken finger type preparation the wine became more subtle. It did not have a problem dealing with Louisiana pepper sauce.
The next meal centered on a barbecued chicken breast in duck sauce. The wine was quite long. It was lemony and oily and yet seemed light. In the presence of a chickpea, pimento, sliced olive, and canned corn salad its acidity remained but its fruit descended.
My final meal started with Matjes herring which softened the Chasselas. The main meal was an omelet loaded with crushed chilies. The wine tasted of apples; it was oily and mouth filling.
My first cheese was a cheddar. This white was subtle, well balanced, and long. Then I went to a Swiss-style cheese. The wine's acidity became sharper and the apples remained.
Final verdict. I liked this wine and would buy it again. It definitely was in a different league from most of the $10 wines that I review, which is not a foregone conclusion for $15 wines. Unfortunately all other Uvavin wines available in my area are out of the $15 range.
About the Author
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, but frankly prefers drinking fine German or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and the right people. He teaches computer classes at an Ontario French-language community college. Check out his wine website http://www.theworldwidewine.com with a weekly column reviewing $10 wines and new sections writing about (theory) and tasting (practice) organic and kosher wines.
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