Chamonix: Views to die for and slopes that can kill.

Chamonix couldn’t be much more different than the archetypal French ski resort. For one you won’t be based in a high altitude, purpose built concrete monstrosity; and unless you base yourself on one mountain and stick to it you’ll either have to catch a bus or drive to the slopes each day. In fact, Chamonix breaks every rule when it comes to a French resort, it not only a dislocated ski area but you can’t even ski back into town. And, on top of that, the terrain in very steep and very challenging, with more to interest the expert than anyone else - and even then a mountain guide is required for much of Chamonix’s most famous and spectacular skiing.But although Chamonix is neither convenient, nor conventional, it is special. Chamonix is without doubt the spiritual home of alpine mountaineering and one of the top ski resorts in the world. The views are quite simply breathtaking as the Chamonix valley cuts deep between the Aiguilles Rouges and the Mont Blanc Massif; with Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain, looking serenely on. The ski runs are steep and committing, high and long, with some of the best vertical descents in the world. So if you prefer your skiing wild and steep Chamonix may be the place to ski. But be warned, there are those who never leave.Chamonix has long been established as a tourist town and has a rich heritage as an alpine center. Chamonix is a bustling town with scores of restaurants, bars, cafes and hotels. The center is pedestrianized with cobbled streets and squares, beautiful period buildings and the river Arve flowing through it Not everything is perfect. Unsightly modern buildings have been built on the periphery of Chamonix but these are largely in Chamonix Sud, away from the historic center. And where there were once lovely old buildings falling into disrepair a renewed effort has been put into smartening up the center of town and efforts are under way to try and ease the traffic which skirts around the pedestrianized center. Chamonix’s shops once dealt solely in high tech mountain equipment and tacky souvenirs, and whilst both still abound there are now plenty of fashionable boutiques for the visitors; and the squares and cafes are often full with shoppers and sightseers gawking at the tumbling glaciers and snow capped peaks. The Chamonix valley spreads out over 20km from the villages of Le Tour at the top of the valley, and Les Houches at the entrance. Regular buses service the lift areas but they can be very crowded and it is better to either take your own car or stay with a company which offers in resort transport. For those wishing to go out a lot then downtown Chamonix is probably the best place to stay, but if you prefer a bit more space and a more traditional mountain ambiance then some of the other villages, such as Les Houches, may be a more appropriate choice. Whatever the choice of location no one place is convenient for everything.Once you get over the fact that Chamonix’s ski area is hopelessly disconnected you can come to appreciate its undeniable benefits. Chamonix has a good variety and number of slopes and each of its different areas offer unique skiing, and all are worth exploring. With the majority of the skiing being above 2000m this means that the snow conditions are generally good; with the north facing slopes of Les Grands Montets guaranteed to have good snow, and the season normally continuing until the 8th May. New investment by the Compagnie Du Mont Blanc has seen improved lift speed and reduced queuing times in the last couple of years with a new bubble at Le Prairion in Les Houches and in Vallorcine, the replacement of Le Herse, Index and Col Cornu with high speed chair lifts and works being carried out on replacing the main lift up to Le Brevent. And although the mountain restaurants have in the past been surprisingly dull there has been some improvements. Although the better mountain restaurants are generally off the beaten track and you’ll need the services of a guide just to find them. All in all Chamonix is at last waking up to the realization that it can no long rest on its laurels and rely on its name alone to draw in the crowds; and is at long last making strides to cement its place as a top flight ski resort with a modernized lift system to at last live up to its spectacular terrain.

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