How to Fly Fish

The Thrill of the Catch

The fly angler uses a rod much longer and lighter than those used for bait and spin fishing. Fly fishing rods can be 3 m (10 ft) long in freshwater fishing and 4 m (14 ft) long for saltwater fishing. To cast a fly, the angler whisks the fly rod forward and back using the wrist, forearm and upper arm. Generally, the rod is moved from the 10 o'clock position to the 2 o'clock position without letting the line touch the water or ground. During this movement the angler pays out line. The movement continues until a considerable amount of line is airborne. The angler then casts the line to a specific spot with a sharp but smooth snap of the wrist.

Casts are made to likely fishing spots such as pools and pockets in streams. The fly is allowed to touch the water and either float or sink, depending on the type of fly. This presentation of the fly onto the water is one of fly-fishing's most difficult aspects, because the angler is attempting to cast in such a way that the line lands smoothly on the water's surface and the fly appears as natural as possible.

After several moments the angler withdraws the fly by pulling a small portion of line then lifting the tip of the rod. The angler then makes another presentation. When fly-fishing, one hand should always be holding the fly line so there is little or no slack. If a fish strikes, the angler pulls in line while raising the rod tip. This sets the hook in the fish's mouth. Although the basics are the same, methods and flies vary.

Numerous counties throughout the region have lots of small, often uncharted, streams that offer plenty of smallmouth, goggle-eye, sunfish, and even an occasional migrant variety of some non-descript funny-finned creature.

While these streams often look inconspicuous to the unsuspecting, trust me…there are really fish in many of them. The trick is to find these particular streams and then, even more challenging, to find ways to catch the fish in them. This article points out some of the simple approaches that I use to enhance success in these streams, those to which I fondly refer to as hidden beauties.

The first step in locating these hidden beauties is to look for streams that actually have a perceptible flow. Many smaller streams, especially during the warmer times of late spring on throughout the summer months, show dramatic effects from the heat, and as a result, slim way down to almost nothing. Much earlier in the season, many of them may have resembled the likes of a more picturesque, energetic mountain stream, gushing its way onward, harboring fish at almost every turn. Not so when the hot sun begins to dry up the environment.

While conducting your search, try to find the more isolated streams. By that, I mean streams that do not have a confluence with some larger stream or river just a short distance away. When and if you can find them, they are often better much preferred. Fish that live in smaller streams and creeks which empty into larger bodies of water will usually find their way back into the larger, more suitable waters as the smaller creeks begin to heat up and recede. Fishing these tributary streams is often far less effective than those which are more isolated. It's simple logistics...the fish in the more isolated streams have nowhere to go. If you fish the smaller, more isolated streams, you can count on the fish being there...even if you can't always count on catching them.

Surprisingly, you'll find that many smaller streams and creeks will maintain a good flow, even during the driest part of summer. Countless underground springs throughout most regions of the country feed many of these creeks unnoticed. Only the stream’s subtle flow during this low period exposes this feature. When you find a stream having this characteristic, more times than not, you’re in luck. Lots of fish in these kinds of streams will remain, even through the driest of times, because the water in them is cooler and more comfortable for them.

Once you have located a stream or two that looks prospective, the very first and most important item on your agenda should be to scout it first. When most streams in the late spring and summer begin to recede, they become low and the water in them is very clear. To simply walk into one of them and start fishing is not really a very good prospect. More than likely, your sudden presence will scare every fish in sight.

Instead, take an hour or so and walk the stream along the length you expect to fish. Look for fish and other telltale signs of life, especially insect action, minnows, and other creatures of the creek that are likely part of the fishs’ food chain. Walk cautiously to a point where you can observe the stream without being obvious yourself. Then, take long pauses, often 5 or 10 minutes and just watch. Wait and then, watch some more. If you see lots of stuff but not necessarily any fish, don’t give up.

Look for unusual stream characteristics. For example, one very common and important feature of most streams is that, over time, currents wash away portions of the bank and undercut the edges. This is especially true near the inside point of land projecting into the water where the stream makes a bend in its course. If the stream bends to the left, look on the inside left point that juts into the water. Over time, strong currents from previous high waters will have undercut the bank in this portion of the river, more so than through the straighter stretches. It is almost like a small cave indented into the undercarriage of the stream. Fish like these kinds of places.

The same will hold true for larger rocks and boulders. During the rush of heavier, flood-like waters, the downstream side of these obstructions will reveal a pocket or indentation that time and the currents have dished out. These areas are clean, cool, and very protected. Make a mental note of every one you see. Later, when you’re fishing this area, you’ll want to focus on these spots by using an assortment of different tricks and patterns during your presentation. Sooner or later, if a fish is there, its curiosity may get the best of it and then, the fun begins!

While continuing your search, look the bottom over especially well while scouting the stream. Note rock formations, indentations or cracks in the bottom of rock slab, downed trees, and other spots that may harbor fish. Don’t just look…look and wait and then, look some more. More times than not, it’s the waiting that scores. Even though the fish that might be there didn’t see you directly, some unsuspecting minnow, crawfish, or startled bird startled by your presence may have been just the signal that the fish did see. More than likely, the fish will hold tight for a short time until things have settled. Sooner or later, the fish may move and if you’re still watching, you’ll see it.

Once you have walked the stream examining all of its unique characteristics, you’re far more informed about its nuances than before you started. The fishing you do from here on will have a far more logical sense about it and your presentations will be a lot smarter. You’ll know where to focus your efforts. You'll know what spots to skip over.

Depending on your region of the country, fly selection will vary greatly. However, one strong rule to which I always adhere is ‘the smaller the stream, the smaller the fly’. Big flies on small, clear streams are an obtrusive give-away. They’ll almost always scare fish because of their sudden and unnatural appearance.

Casting techniques vary widely. Most small streams, however, beg for simplicity. Don’t get too technical here. The vast majority of the time, the standard roll cast will have a distinct advantage over other methods.

For one thing, it doesn’t take much energy. At the end of a retrieve, you simply roll the line out to the next destination without all the false casting, etc. It might not impress an observer though, in case you’re more worried about your image than whether or not you catch fish. More importantly, the technique of a roll cast is quick. It also creates far less line motion in the air. Over open and very clear water, this is very critical. You’ll also cover lots more water with it than if you use more conventional, overhead motions.

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