A Wine Lover's Near-Weekly Guide To $15 Wine - A Beaujolais Villages Nouveau, 2012 From France

Previously a marketing smash, the new wine phenomenon has become more and more of a yawn over the last several years. It's too early in the season for boring statistics, but fewer and fewer people anxiously await the third Thursday in November, once a great excuse for parties. This offering is a so-called-top-of-the-line Beaujolais Villages Nouveau. Like the other new wines, it was raw grapes only a few short weeks ago. The producer dates back to 1880 and owns over 180 acres (more than 70 hectares) of some great vineyards in Burgundy. If you are in the Beaune area, only 25 miles (40 kilometers) south of Dijon you should really visit the Hospices de Beaune and its museum with a sound and light show evenings that run from April to October. And don't miss the local wine market for better wines than today's offering. The companion wine is a Gamay Nouveau from a lesser known region of France at about two thirds the price.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 2012 12 % alcohol about $15.

There were no specific marketing materials so let's quote the back label. "Passion and skill have been faithfully transmitted to the present fourth generation of the Drouhin family. The vinification of this wine reveals the elegance and true expression of the Beaujolais terroir. With its intensity and fresh fruit, Beaujolais is the festive wine par excellence. This is a unique bottle, to enjoy and to share." And now for my review.

At the first sips this wine was thin and sweet. It had moderate length and no depth. In the face of Japanese rice crackers it was raw. A barbecued chicken leg brought out the bubble gum and a slight sweetness. A barbecued chicken breast made me think that the bubble gum was tamed but I was wrong. The liquid darkened but I kept thinking raw. Then came a packaged Turkish salad composed of sweet pimento, tomato paste, dried parsley, hot peppers, vinegar, and spices and voilà, our new friend paled. Candy made from fruit juice and fruit puree muted the wine; it was only grapey. And for the first time in years I was totally unable to return the cork to its resting place. I had to dig up another cork to seal the bottle.

My next meal centered on a packaged Baked Ziti Siciliano that I liberally doused with grated Parmesan cheese. Now the libation became a bit sweet. It showed some depth and pleasant acidity. In the face of fresh strawberries the wine became quite weak. It presented a touch of acidity and some darkness. My other dessert was Ben and Jerry's Chocolate Fudge Brownie Ice Cream. Now my glass's contents were somewhat acidic accompanied by black cherries.

The third meal was an omelet spiced with a combination of basil, thyme, sliced garlic, cumin, crushed red chili peppers, and Portabello mushrooms. The Gamay was grapey with bright acidity and a tinge of dark cherries. In the face of grape tomatoes the nectar was round but lost its acidity.

Final verdict. This is the best of the new wines. I cannot remember one that came so close. I actually finished the bottle. But I have absolutely no intention of buying another one this year.

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