Installing the Deck Boards

When it comes to decking board lumber there are several choices, including 2X4 and 2X6. Also popular are 5/4 X6 and 5/4 X4 with rounded “bullnose” edges.

While redwood and cedar are attractive, as well as insect and weather resistant, pressure-treated lumber is also a good option. Another popular choice is re-cycled plastic fiber decking. Re-cycled plastic decking looks like wood, but is virtually impervious to weather and insects; it requires no wood deck stain or maintenance. Although this type material has adequate strength for decking, traditional lumber is required for the posts, box frame, and joists.

Whatever decking material you choose, there are several ways to secure it to the joists and box frame. Many DIY deck builders opt for traditional right angle installation; spanning the joists with decking boards running parallel to the house. However, this method of decking can allow the box frame to “rack” and move out of square; adding instability in the structure. This type problem can be offset by cross-bracing underneath the deck.

For a more decorative look, install the decking on a 45-degree angle to the joists and box frame. This will increase stability and minimize racking. This method requires a little extra skill and precision; to insure proper cutting and fit, made easier by using a power miter saw.

Decking boards should be fastened to joists with the best side up; boards do not require spacing unless they are “kiln dried” lumber or man-made material which will not shrink. If so, it should be spaced at about 1/8-inch intervals. All other deck lumber should be tight, to allow for shrinkage.

Fasten deck boards to joists with galvanized or stainless steel spiral or ring-shank nails, or deck screws. Two spaced at about ¾-inch from board edges on each joist is adequate, although some builders prefer three. Torx head deck screws are much less prone to stripping. Drill pilot holes in the deck board with a small bit before nailing or screwing to prevent board splits.

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