Afghan Islamic Clothing and Culture

Popular western imagery of the Middle East doesn't suggest much variety in traditional dress, but there is more to it than you might think.

Even those who don't have much background in Afghani/Muslim culture probably know the burqa, at least by sight. One tenet of Islaam is that men and women both must dress conservatively in public. Women wear the burqa, a garment generally made of silk or polyester, which covers their bodies head to toe, leaving a small opening for the eyes, which can even be netted. It is most commonly a simple garment, blue or black in color, but can sometimes be found in different colors with decorative beading or embroidery, depending on its intended occasion.

On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Pashtun style dress, from the southern region of Afghanistan. It is less conservative than the burqa, especially in more modern versions. This type of garment is made from silk, velvet, cotton, or rayon. The dress can fall anywhere from ankle length to thigh length and the sleeves are usually between elbow and wrist length. The bodice is fitted and the skirt and sleeves widen out into bell shapes. The dresses are always made from brightly-colored, contrasting fabrics and adorned in silver or golden thread. They are worn with pants underneath, decorative headscarves adorned with gilded thread and maybe even silver coins, and silver jewelry.

Somewhere in between these two styles of dress is the shalwar kameez. Shalwar is the name for the pants and kameez for the dress-like shirt which are worn together. The kameez is normally a long, straight shirt which can reach all the way down to below the knees or rest around the hips. Shalwar can be loosely fitting or a little bit more snug, but generally won't be as tight as leggings. This can be worn by men or women, though it is more common for women, and can be very plain or very decorative and colorful, depending on the occasion. The women's shalwar kameez is normally paired with a patterned headscarf called a dupatta, which is a less conservative answer to the burqa's complete coverage.

While both men and women can be seen wearing the shalwar kameez, there are gender specific garments for men as well. The chapan is a very popular garment. It is a long coat-like piece of clothing, normally made from silk or cotton, which comes in a variety of bright colors and designs. They are often striped with 2 or more bright colors.

Another men's garment, the kurta, is more simple and lightweight. It is a long, loose, collarless shirt similar to the kameez of the shalwar kameez. The rectangular shaped garment has small slits up the sides to allow freedom of movement. Silk and linen are popular fabric choices for the kurta. They can be found in very plain, simple colors for everyday wear, or more decorative and flashy designs for special occasions.

Finally, the two types of warm hats. First the pakol or pakul, a woolen hat made from camel or sheep's wool which is worn by both men and women. It comes in the shape of a sack with a rounded top, then it is rolled up to form a sort of brim, and ends up looking something akin to a French beret. It is most often seen in neutral colors such as brown, green, grey, or black. The other is the karakul hat, which is an Afghani symbol, and is always worn by the president. This hat is a men-specific hat. It is made from a special type of lamb's wool which comes from fetuses or newly born karakul sheep.

The many forms and varieties of traditional Afghan dress can still be seen all over Afghanistan and the Middle East, and have even been adopted into the western fashion world as an homage to their unique beauty and function.

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