Aquitaine Top Towns Guide - Nontron Travel Guide - Superb Views, Good Feel And Great Base

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Nontron is one of the principal towns of the department of the Dordogne, the third largest department in France. With a population of just under 3,500 it is the northernmost town of the department and is almost equidistant from the towns of Perigueux (capital town of the Dordogne) Angoulême (capital town of the Charente) and Limoges (capital town of the Haute Vienne).

The town's name is said to derive from the ancient language of Tyr, as a corruption of "Nata" (valley) and "Dun" (mountain). Nontron lies at the heart of the Périgord-Limousin Nature Park, an area of outstanding natural beauty.

The town of Nontron is famed for the manufacture of fine cutlery and in the 19th Century was home to a thriving iron industry. It is said that Nontron developed the world's first folding pocket knife, and to this day, the town continues to celebrate a festival of the knife each year on the first weekend of August. Today, industry has largely given way to commerce and small businesses.

Special Feature - Brantôme The picturesque village of Brantôme lies about 20 minutes south of Nontron, following the D.875 road. Locally, the village is known as the "Venice of Périgord", being effectively a tiny island, encircled by the river Dronne. Here you will find bridges with magnificent river views.

Brantôme has a Benedictine abbey originally founded in the 8th Century and founded by King Charlemagne who is said to have donated to it the relics of Saint Sicarius, one of the infants murdered by King Herod. The abbey has been reconstructed over the years, the original having been destroyed by the Vikings. It was finally reconstructed in 1850, but retains many features spanning its 800 year history, notably the bell tower, dated to the 11th Century and one of the oldest surviving in France.

A walk around the village will reveal many examples of mediaeval and renaissance architecture, and if you are more adventurous, you can hire a canoe and enjoy a different perspective of the village and surrounding countryside. Brantôme has many fine restaurants, including the Michelin starred "Moulin de l'Abbaye" where you can sample some of the finest culinary delights of the region.

If you have time to spare after your visit to Brantôme, why not take a look at the village and chateau at Bourdeilles, just seven kilometres further south.

Things to See and Do - La Tour Carrée (The Square Tower) This unusual stone construction stands in Avenue du Général Leclerc, Nontron. In keeping with the mediaeval flavour of much of the town, it was not constructed until 1905, four years after Antoine Bertrand submitted a request to the mayor of Nontron to have it constructed as his family home. Much discussion ensued, with permission first granted, then rescinded and finally reinstated. The Bertrand family moved in, even though the deed of sale of the land, purchased from the municipality, was not formally signed until August 1911, a whole ten years after the building was conceived.

Le Chateau (The Castle) Constructed in the mid eighteenth century by Jean Charles de Lavie, president of the parliament of Bordeaux, the castle stands on the site of the former Chateau de Peytavis, a true castle with a moat and drawbridge. Although the original vaulted cellars have been retained, the present castle has more the appearance of a grand residence than of a battle-ready fortress. The present castle was sold to Louis Gabriel de la Ramière, last baron of Nontron, on the eve of the French Revolution and the property was in turn ceded by the baron to the Vice-President of the district, Jean Baptiste Michel de Mazarat. Following a serious fire, the roof was rebuilt by Louis-François Mazarat, a mayor of Nontron and Member of Parliament of the Second Republic. The letter "M" can today be seen on the pediment.

Les Jardins du Bandiat 18km to the North West of Nontron, and just across the departmental border in the Charente, lies the village of Souffrignac , where you can visit the Jardins du Bandiat. This socio-ecological project was started in 1998, and provides work experience to the long term unemployed in market gardening, the maintenance of farming equipment and the upkeep of buildings, with a view to securing a return to the workplace. The gardens produce organic fruit and vegetables which are sold at local markets, distributed to wider public or used to produce jams and conserves which are available on site. The site also houses a museum, whose theme changes every few months. Free guided tours of the museum and organic gardens are available each July and August between 3pm and 5pm and include some tastings!

The Jardins du Bandiat are situated at: Le Bourg, 16380 Souffrignac.

The Bellows Tradition The town of Nontron upholds an ancient tradition dating from the Middle Ages. It was believed that evil spirits hid under the robes of priests (and some say under the skirts of the town's womenfolk) and the week preceding Lent was the chosen time to exorcise these spirits. The modern-day carnival, resurrected in 1979, of the "Soufflets Nontronnais" sees the townsfolk dressing up in white robes, some with their faces painted, some equipped with musical instruments but above all with bellows to drive out the spirits from their hiding places! The tradition of using bellows in Nontron is said to emanate from the town's historic connection to the iron industry. You can find some information in English at www.soufflaculs.net or contact Monsieur Gérard Baylet, 24300 Saint Martial de Valette, France.

Church The Eglise Notre Dame des Ronces is built on the site of the original church dating back to 1625. The current building was completed in 1889 with the installation of the final giant church bell, weighing 900 kilos. Today the bells are in the process of restoration. The church is home to a grand Merklin organ, weighing over 12 tonnes, restored by Jean-Pascal Villard in 2006.

Markets Nontron market is held each Saturday morning.

In a nutshell, we found Nontron to be a town with a good feel, lovely views which served as a great touring base.

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